Silk fabric has long held a highly prized and very prestigious position in the realm of textiles.
Silk is celebrated for its unparalleled luxury and elegance, as well as its many benefits for your health.
This exquisite fabric has captivated many hearts through the millennia and is not only renowned for its glamorous beauty but also its durability, and many other properties as a fabric.
Did you know that natural silk fibres are only marginally thicker than a strand of human hair?
But even so, it still has impressive strengths in contrast to other fabrics and its delicate appearance. With the unique elasticity of silk, it can stretch significantly, even up to five times its length, without succumbing to any damage.
This makes it a favourite thread for both consumers and designers alike.
However, the production of natural silk does not come without its challenges, which has often led to the development of various alternatives that aim to meet the increasing demand for this most coveted fabric.
Among these substitutes, artificial silk, or synthetic silk has emerged as a more popular and budget-friendly choice, which offers a similar aesthetic feel and appeal, however addresses some of the more ethical and environmental concerns associated with the production of natural silk.
So, as the textile industry constantly evolves, these alternatives are playing a crucial ro;e in balancing luxury with sustainability and affordability, combining more customers with options to align with their specific needs.
In the exploration of natural silk and alternative artificial silk, it is important to understand what makes silk so important, its origins, production processes and the various types of silks available. Among the different types of silk Mulberry is proven to be a favourite in comparison to wild silk, as a natural option.
There is also much to compare regarding the characteristics and benefits of natural silk vs synthetic silk, which will shed some light on the ongoing argument about quality, sustainability and consumer choice in the ever-changing landscape of textiles. So let's unravel the fascinating world of silk and silk alternatives, with its enduring allure and luxury.
What is Natural Silk Fabric?
Natural, or genuine silk is meticulously crafted from natural silk fibers that are transformed into various textiles. It is a luxury fabric that consists mainly of a natural protein fibre known as fibroid, which is produced specifically from insects that form cocoons. Silk forms a thread that can be woven into a fabric exhibiting a soft, luxurious feel, with an aesthetic, natural sheen, and impressive durability.
The most prevalent type of silk on the market originates from the cocoons of what we know as the silkworm scientifically referred to as the Bombyx mori. The Silkworm originates from China, however, it also covers a range of areas such as Northern India, Japan and the far east regions of Russia.
The silkworm explicitly feeds on leaves from the mulberry tree. The sericulture process, which is the cultivating process of Mulberry silk, starts with the careful rearing of young mulberry silkworms, fed a diet of mulberry leaves. When they reach their pupal stage they start by spinning themselves inside a cocoon that is a white to yellowish color. Once the pupae are ready and the cocoons are fully spun, they are collected and immersed in boiling water which is a technique known as stifling.
This step eliminates the pupae inside the cocoon and breaks down what is known as sericin, a natural adhesive that holds the cocoon together. As a result, the cocoon can easily be unwound into silk filaments, which are then woven into thin threads.
Because of the unique triangular prism structure of the fibers it allows them to refract light, which then creates the elegant soft sheen that silk is so renowned for.
The History of Silk Production
Silk production first occurred in ancient China thousands of years ago. The silk trade industry was very valuable and closely guarded with sericulture, the culture of silk production spreading to other parts of Asia and eventually European countries. Today China is still the largest silk producer which is closely followed by India and other Asian countries.
What is Synthetic Silk?
Synthetic or artificial silk refers to a faux silk satin type of silk that does not consist of natural silk fibres from cocoon-spinning insects. It mainly consists of fibres such as natural cotton, and wool, blended with synthetic fibres such as rayon and polyester. This method was developed in the early 1900s as a more ethical, and cost-effective alternative to genuine silk. Its production largely transitioned into a machine-operated princess that resulted in fibre that is quicker and more economical to manufacture.
Artificial, or synthetic silk is frequently associated with rayon and its derivatives such as viscose and modal, with these fabrics made mostly from cellulose which is a plant-based material. Cellulose is typically sourced from wood pulp, particularly from the eucalyptus tree though you can also source it from cotton or bamboo. The transformation of the wood pulp into long thin fibers involves many chemical processes that lead to a durable fabric commonly used as a silk alternative in many garments.
On the other hand, a synthetic material polyester is also often used to produce silk which is an even more affordable option. Though the artificial silk alternatives closely mimic the luxurious appearance and feel of silk, they often lack its strength and durability as well as many other health benefits only found in genuine silk.
Types of Natural Silk
Firstly natural silk is classified into two categories namely, domestic silk and wild silk:
Raw Silk (Wild Silk)
Raw silk or wild silk also known as Ahimsa silk is harvested from the cocoons that silkworms create in their natural habitat. When the silkworms abandon their cocoons the empty cocoons are collected and processed into silk fibers. Wild silkworms have a more varied diet resulting in variations of textures and colors in their silk cocoons. Because raw, harvested silkworm cocoons have not undergone any treatment it retains the natural protein sericin which then contributes to its strength, however can lead to a more irregular texture.
Domestic Silk
Domestic silk is produced under more controlled circumstances to ensure that the resulting fibres and yarns have a more consistent quality. Domestic silkworms are fed a very specific diet, usually, mulberry leaves and the cocoons are harvested before the pupae abandon them. This allows a more even texture and less colour variation in the silk fibres which ensure a softening and more luxurious feel to silk fabrics.
The diversity in silk types and qualities only enriches the silk industry. This allows for a wider array of silk products that consist of anything from luxury silk sheets to more decorative textiles and garments.
The Main DifferentTypes of Natural Silk
Under the Category of natural domestic silk there are various types of silk produced by different cocoon-spinning species of insects:
- Eri Silk.
- Tasar Silk.
- Munga Silk.
- Mata Silk.
One of the most popular choices remains Mulberry Silk. However, each of these types of silks comes with its unique uses and characteristics.
Characteristics and Benefits of Natural Silk
Natural silk is well known for its luxurious feel and impressive durability in comparison to synthetic silk. However, natural silk also holds many health benefits such as:
- Breathability.
- Moisture Retention.
- Temperature Regulating Properties.
- Hypoallergenic properties and resistance to dust mites.
It is an exceptional choice for individuals with allergies or skin sensitivity, along with its health benefits for your hair and skin.
However, let us look at a few of the key differences between natural and synthetic silk, and how its benefits compare.
Key Differences Between Natural and Synthetic Silk Fabrics
Although natural silk is a more luxurious and expensive form of silk, compared to artificial silk, it by far outweighs synthetic silk when it comes to quality and health benefits.
Aesthetic Appeal
Natural silk exhibits such an alluring array of colours, largely because of the unique prism structure of the fibres that refract light in a way that gives it a multi-dimensional shimmering appeal. On the contrary synthetic silk tends to produce a much more uniform sheen that lacks the depth and complexity of its natural counterpart. However, advancements in technology have allowed the textile industry to create high-quality artificial silk that can mimic this coveted lustre.
Thus, by employing a combination of fibres and innovative production and dyeing methods many manufacturers can closely resemble the luxury appearance of natural silk. In turn, this allows the industry to make a broader range of silk-like products available to consumers. Anything from elegant silk garments to sumptuous bedding, all of which maintain the desirable physical qualities that silk is so renowned for.
Feel and Texture
Because genuine silk cloth is predominantly handcrafted it could result in minor flaws such as small bumps or loose threads within the fabric. On the other hand, synthetic silk is a machine produced in looms that yields a much more flawless and smooth appearance. Though, you should never dismiss all smooth silk as artificial. Many authentic silk producers are also utilising machinery such as looms for efficiency which could result in a smoother appearance for natural silk fabric.
Regarding tactile feel, natural silk has the ability to glide effortlessly against itself with minimal to no friction, and when you rub the fabric against your ear, makes a gentle crunching sound. Similarly, if you have a warm feeling building in your fingers when rubbing the fabric, it is a strong indicator that the silk is genuine.
The lack of these two traits could typically signify that the silk is artificial. Genuine silk is naturally more friction-resistant and less likely to produce fluff from friction, as opposed to synthetic silk. The luxury, soft texture and warm feel of natural silk make it much more desirable than its synthetic counterpart.
Durability and Strength
One of the key differences between natural and artificial silk is its strength and durability. In this case, natural silk by far outperforms artificial silk with its tactile strength, durability, and flexibility. As an example, when you pull a whole silk thread out from the fabric and rub it between your fingers, natural silk remains intact, while synthetic silk will start to fray.
However, when exposed to moisture genuine silk loses its resilience and could become abrasive when rubber, a drawback that is not so often shared with artificial silk. On the contrary, natural silk is generally much more elastic than artificial silk and can easily be stretched up to five times its original length without breaking.
Breathability and Temperature Regulation
Thanks to its unique fibre structure that features a hollow core, natural silk fibres have the remarkable ability to regulate temperatures. This design enables silk to effectively absorb moisture and retain heat, thereby helping you maintain a more comfortable body heat. When you sweat, natural silk effectively wicks away the moisture from your skin rather than absorbing it, which in turn promotes a cooling effect during summer. However, in the cooler months of winter, it provides warmth by ideally trapping the heat.
This dual functionality makes natural silk an exceptional choice for all-year-round bedding. In contrast, artificial silk is a synthetic fibre derived mostly from petroleum and other natural fibres that lack natural breathability and temperature-regulating properties. Artificial silk is more likely to absorb moisture than wick it away thus resulting in a less comfortable sleeping experience.
Hypoallergenic Properties
Due to the presence of sericin and natural protein that coats natural silk fibres, natural silk primarily stands out as a remarkable hypoallergenic fabric. This unique characteristic allows the silk to effectively repel allergens such as dust mites, and mold. This makes it an excellent choice for individuals with allergies or sensitive skin.
Pure mulberry silk is well known for its long and smooth fibres that are the softest and strongest fabric available, which renders it ideal for individuals who have sensitive skin, even infants who suffer from skin conditions such as eczema, or contact dermatitis. Similarly, the fabric is ideal for adults with skin conditions such as acne or eczema, or even those who want to avoid wrinkles.
However, artificial silk is often derived from polyester, which is well known to lead to skin irritation due to its petroleum-based origins, and it also has no hypoallergenic or repelling functions in terms of mould or dust mites. Silk fibers harvested from silkworm cocoons are completely natural which means they provide an effective barrier against harmful microbes. As a result natural silk ensures a much healthier and more comfortable experience for most users.
Moisture Retaining Capabilities
Natural silk threads are mainly composed of amino acids which contain a unique protein known as sericin. During the process of transforming raw silk into silk fibres, this water-soluble protein is extracted which leaves behind fibroin, a protein abundant in 18 different amino acids. So, when you sleep on silk bedding, or lay your head on a silk pillowcase these amino acids naturally work together to nourish your skin and hair.
This is also why most premium skincare and haircare products incorporate silk proteins as one of their key ingredients. Thus, using a silk pillowcase could easily be likened to an overnight beauty routine that will enhance the health and appearance of your hair and skin while you sleep.
Unfortunately the same could not be said for artificial silk which has limited health benefits and does not contain similar proteins.
Price
Because natural silk undergoes a much more labour-intensive production process and comes from less available natural origins it is seen as a luxury item with a higher price point. Whereas artificial silk is machine-produced by using more available synthetic and natural materials which makes it faster and easier to produce and thus more budget-friendly.
Environmental Impact of Silk Production
There are quite a few controversies circulating, regarding the environmental impact of natural silk production and its sustainability. However, natural silk production has a relatively low environmental impact because silkworms are raised mainly on the leaves of mulberry trees and because the production process is more labour-intensive.
Some sericulture practices may involve the use of chemicals and pesticides, though this is fairly minimal. Synthetic silk production on the other hand has a much larger environmental impact due to the excessive use of chemicals and energy for loom machines during the production process.
Certifications for Sustainable Silk Fabrics
If you are looking for sustainably produced natural silk products it is vital to seek the necessary certifications pertaining to the products. You can look for certifications such as the Silk Mark, USDA certification or the European Union Organic certification label. These certifications ensure that the silk fabric meets all the necessary standards for sustainability and environmental responsibility.
Caring for Silk Fabrics
In comparison to synthetic silk, natural silk is much more vulnerable when wet and requires more meticulous and gentle care. It is important not to expose natural silk to high temperatures or harsh detergents and to store them in a cool dry place to preserve their quality.
Make sure that you either hand wash or use a gentle machine wash with low water temperatures. Dry the silk in an area out of direct sunlight. Tumble dry at low heat, and avoid ironing silk.
Conclusion
Natural and synthetic silk fabric are two very distinct types of material that each holds its own unique benefits. Natural silk is praised for its luxurious feel, shimmering appeal, and health benefits such as breathability, and durability. However synthetic silk holds many similar properties with the added benefit of being less expensive.
When it comes to choosing between natural and synthetic silk you need to consider the benefits of each. With regard to health benefits, durability and environmental impact, natural silk is a much better option. However, synthetic silk will give you the feel and elegance of silk, at a much lower price point.
